London is a city on the vertical rise and as the capital’s sky-high ambitions unfold, so does its abundance of rooftop spaces. The recent reopening of COPPA, LARDO’s alfresco dining sibling, is offering birds-eye views of Hackney’s London Fields at its rosticceria (an Italian ‘slow food takeaway’) and bar for up to two hundred sun-worshipping revelers.
The décor is a little less Italian than you may imagine. Think chintzy British seaside town, slapped around with a hint of Tiki: a mix of colourful deckchairs, brightly-painted wooden grottos, chains of faux lemon lighting and pots bursting with fragrant herbs. Don’t be alarmed as the occasional National Rail train jolts you from your beachside daydreams. This is still London.
Head Chef Christian Angius has created a menu serving LARDO’s signature charcuterie made from rare breed Mangalitza pig, alongside a selection of antipasti: fennel and orange salad, panzanella, insalata genovese, patatine fritte. The BBQ is fired up each day, we gorge on succulent free-range wings and tempura radishes, leaves and all. Snacks are simple, fun and casual – reminiscent of the décor. Cocktails fresh with ‘house-developed cordials’, unusual herbal liqueurs like Amaro, and the obligatory Prosecco.
Open until September under the watchful eye of owner Eliza Flanagan (ex-Bistroteque and venerable London cuisine-scene force), COPPA is an elevated treat for all East London’s seaside fantasists and fine-food-adoring cognoscenti. Splendido.