There’s a lot of nostalgia for the 1990s happening at the moment, and while Britain enjoys the resurgence of Gary Barlow, Warsaw is enjoying the second coming of zapiekanka – a fast food which began as a delicious market stall offering but was driven to the verge of extinction thanks to the rise of microwave culture.
A wonderfully simple construction of warm baguette, mushrooms, cheese and various ketchups, the freshly-made zapiekanka is back and better than ever at Serwus, designed by MOKO ARCHITECTS / MFRMGR. The firm’s Marta Frejda and Michał Gratkowski describe the original market stalls as “hideous”, but the pair are sentimental types and came up with an updated, much nicer version inside the shop using metal frames. The layout is divided into five stalls. The first is for browsing the menu, ordering and paying, with the second separating the customer and staff areas, three and four for preparing the food and sauces, and five for eating. The pre-war floor tiles were an unexpected but welcome discovery during the renovation.