Nosh and Chow, at Berns

StockholmEating Out

Nosh and Chow, at Berns

Modern take on classic dining remembers its manners...

The classy quality of landmark Stockholm hotel Berns doesn’t so much jump out at you as raise a white-gloved fist to its mouth and cough quietly. It’s everywhere you look, the 19th Century building establishes its breeding before you get near the doors. But, and it’s a but big enough to start a sentence with, this is old money leather-smell refinement blended perfectly with modern flair and nouveau riche energy; the place sprang up from a ditch so fetid with fish bits and drowned moggies it earned the name The Cat Sea, and such a connection with the common man isn’t to be sniffed at, even at a grand place like this.

We hope that bit of pungent background hasn’t put you off your lunch, because Berns looked a little further afield for a premises in which to create Nosh and Chow – as the shudderingly incongruous name suggests an internationally influenced, four-floor townhouse and courtyard on Norrlandsgatan 24th. To call Nosh and Chow a restobar would be to call a Stradivarius violin a fiddle, but the bottom two floors are indeed for eating and drinking, with the multinational food having Swedish ingredients at its core. Catalan architect Lázaro Rosa-Violán, who has left his mark on both Barcelona and Madrid through previous projects Boca Grande and Big Fish, has designed the lower two tiers, with the upper floors set to be completed later this year and a speakeasy in the pipeline. I’ll leave our pictures of the Señor’s opulent interior work to do their own talking. It’s less vulgar that way…

Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm Nosh and Chow, at Berns Stockholm

Photography, Wolfgang Kleinschmidt