Wishbone, Brixton

LondonEating Out

Wishbone, Brixton

Free-range fried chicken is winging its way...

* Wishbone is now CHICKENliquor

Delighted by the deep-fried chicken served up in a red and white box, but worried about the ethics of battery farming? Turned off by the sight of greasy thighs sitting perma-heated in counter displays? Wish that the colonel served beer? Just when you thought Christmas was over, all your wishes are about to be granted!

That’s if you live anywhere near Brixton Market, where Wishbone has set up roost. Boasting that it’s the UK’s first free-range fried chicken restaurant (and who are we to argue?), Wishbone is the result of four years’ global research into fried chicken techniques and recipes. Chef and writer William Leigh kicked off the project, joined last year by MEATLiquor‘s Scott Collins, and the pair are now ready to unleash their findings on the poultry lovers of SW9.

There’s a rough-hewn look to the main dining area of Wishbone, courtesy of London-based designers Shed, with its bare wood tables and seating – all that’s missing is the sawdust – but a few floor-to-ceiling wall murals throughout the restaurant and bar areas add colour and humour and there is a lot less easy-wipe plastic and formica than one usually has to suffer. Even going upstairs to the loo is an educational experience, as each step bears the name of a different breed of bird. The bearded southern gentleman had better raise his game…

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Interior images © Ed Reeve, courtesy of Shed
Food images courtesy of Wishbone