CopenhagenEating Out


Noma creator dials it down for his new entry...

Hold the front page! Of the culinary pull-out anyway. The headline news for foodies is that Claus Meyer, the lesser-known partner of René Redzepi in ‘world’s-best-restaurant™’ Noma, is back with a new project called Radio in Copenhagen. Following its famous sister venue’s earthly philosophy, foodies with a pile of money and the patience to get through the inevitable aeon’s wait for a table will be queueing in their sleeping bags outside the front door before the menu ink is dry.

We say a pile of money, but Meyer and his team (“food-mates, partners and head chefs” Jesper Kirketerp and Rasmus Kliim) are promising accessible pricing for their Nordic veggie-based cuisine in unpretentious surroundings, and while we can’t vouch for the first pledge (my sleeping bag didn’t make it back from the JLS Bristol gig ticket fiasco last year), the interior of Radio – courtesy of young designer Bjarke Ingels – has a finely tuned, even understated, aesthetic that is cranked up a notch by the hugely beautiful canvas prints dominating one wall.

To cater for the new value venue, the chefs will be mostly using produce from their own vegetable field (as seen in one of the prints), and Meyer is promising to forge “more intimate relations with fishermen and hunters”. All very good, however those riding high on the crest of the current high-end junk food craze beware – the folk at Radio are keen to heighten awareness of sustainability and accountability through their promotion of plant-based foods; those craving a fat-drenched burger need not apply.

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Photography, Anders Schønnemann