In the heart of Hell’s Kitchen, a new eatery is garnering attention with a bold take on Mexican cuisine. Taquería Condesa is the latest venture from Leonel Baizan of Taquería 86, and channels the vibrant spirit of Mexico City’s Condesa neighbourhood, known for its tree-lined streets, Art Deco architecture, and creative energy. The restaurant celebrates both culture and history, translating them into a personal and flavourful menu.
For Baizan, tacos are family history. His mother, Sabela, began selling homemade tacos in Hell’s Kitchen in 1980, and a young Leonel helped serve them to neighbours and local football teams. That early entrepreneurial spirit blossomed into a career in hospitality, with Baizan working at Gotham Bar & Grill and New York Restaurant Group before opening his first full-service restaurant, Taquería 86, inspired by Mexico’s iconic 1986 FIFA World Cup.
Condesa is the latest chapter, offering 11 distinctive tacos crafted from simple, honest ingredients. Each nixtamal tortilla is handmade daily, and diners can finish their tacos with house-made sauces including salsa verde, smoky, or chile de árbol. Signature options range from panko-crusted cod and skirt steak to slow-cooked birria and a vegan mushroom option, alongside classics such as guacamole, elote and customisable quesadillas or burritos.
The interior comes courtesy of Pablo Castellanos Studio, and mirrors the energy of Condesa itself. A stained-glass wall displays the restaurant’s name, a custom piece handcrafted in Mexico City, while a bold red circular sofa defines the space and subtly guides circulation. A small bar, framed by a rounded mirror-lined wall, offers a space to enjoy the cocktail list in a setting that is visually striking. Retro-chic finishes nod to the past, while playful design gestures and vibrant detailing evoke the neighbourhood’s contemporary creative pulse.
Taquería Condesa balances heritage and innovation with ease. Through carefully considered design, thoughtful storytelling, and a menu rooted in family history, it captures the heart of Mexico City in the middle of Manhattan. The result is a dining experience that is authentic, lively, and brimming with flavours that will have you coming back again and again.
Photography, courtesy Pablo Castellanos Studio / Taquería Condesa / @acostaaaaah / @davide_arcoraci.
