Restaurateur Martin Morales transported us to the Peruvian capital Lima with his London restaurant Ceviche, and with his follow-up venue Andina, it’s a case of same country, different neighbourhood.
Where Ceviche draws on Lima’s Barranco district for inspiration, for this journey into Peruvian cuisine we are donning crampons and heading to the mountain town of Arequipa. Andina (the feminine noun for an inhabitant of the Andes) is based on a neighbourhood picanteria – family-run eateries for the local community, run by matriarchs and fuelling the Andeans with a selection of hearty and healthy crowd-pleasing dishes packed with fresh ingredients including ingredients now recognised as superfoods.
Martin, whose grandmother was an Andina, invited Ceviche collaborators Schneider Design back to shape this Shoreditch restaurant, and the vitality of the menu is reflected in the equally energetic look. Borrowing design elements and textures of a traditional Andean house, the Peru/Euro fusion dining area is served by an open kitchen, but it’s upstairs that drew our attention. Cop a load of the technicolor Music Room, an eating and working space filled with 2,000 of Martin’s 7” Peruvian funk, cumbia and psyche records from the ’60s and ’70s. Vibrant.