This is a good time to have an interest in Nordic-influenced cuisine, especially around New York, where there’s a feeding frenzy for all things super fresh, sustainably foraged and micro-seasonal, and where no plant, flower or weed is safe from the chef’s imagination. At Aska, in Brooklyn, Fredrik Berselius is bringing together influences from his childhood in Sweden, produce from the Northeastern USA, values from the past and a forward-thinking menu.
Berselius doesn’t hang around – last year’s pop-up Frej spawned this permanent venue and the Michelin team have already handed over a star to Aska (Ashes). Any Swedish speakers turning up expecting a barbecue joint will have to make do with the hot dog from the bar menu; the main event happens on a Friday and Saturday with a 10-course tasting selection, with a seven course version on other days. Dishes vary with the time of year, although two feature year-round including the ice cream with dill and herb-infused whipped cream we’ve pictured below. Aska has found an intimately-sized nook within the Kinfolk Studios building – the dining space seats 24 – and the creative agency has delivered a nature-inspired interior. It’s dominated by a wonderfully fierce wall mural and the slightly more understated by equally wonderful 23-foot walnut bar, where the cocktail recipes are as carefully considered as the food.